Ramadan Mubarak

One of the most consistent comments I've heard from other ex-pats is that travel back to their home countries is mandatory during Ramadan. I moved to Dubai in June. Almost every person I've met through my husband, and his work, mentioned that they were headed out of town to avoid Ramadan.

Since I just got here, that was not really a possibility for me. So, I did a little reading and tried to prepare myself for the festival. Because, you see, to the Muslims, it's a great time of reflection, prayer and introspection.

During the month long observance, Muslims do not allow anything to pass their lips during daylight hours. No cigarettes, no coffee, no water. We are in the middle of the desert and no one is allowed to drink water all day long... it boggles the mind. Since it is 'illegal' according to Islamic law, the businesses who do trade with westerners here in Dubai make few exceptions.

Imagine a mall where the openings to the Starbucks are all pulled down, except for one. That single mall entrance is draped three quarters of the way down with black cloth. You realize you could duck under that barrier and get back to the counter, then sit in the dark and sip your cappuccino. If you wanted to... Basically, the restaurants can serve westerners, but it can not be visible to the public. It's furtive and shadowy.

Imagine going into a movie theater and having the entire snack bar area shut down and unmanned. I was told once that movie theaters make their money on the popcorn, not the movie tickets. Now, when I looked at the closed snack bar, I could only project the lost revenues for the theaters.

The entire month of August is devoted to daylight fasting and evening celebrations. It's a time to feed the poor and celebrate God's blessings by giving and sharing. From what I've heard, most of the deprivations of the daylight hours are broken by large communal meals shared with friends and families. Breaking the fast after sunset is a meal called "Iftar" which is traditionally started with three dates.

During the daylight hours, the fast is supposed to be reflexive time filled with prayer. If you share your Iftar meal with others, it brings extra blessings. So providing a meal so that others can break their fast also blesses you.

I can't imagine going through a whole desert day without drinking a drop of water. No breath mints, no gum. It would be a great hardship. Because of the reality of living among people who are giving up so much, it's considered really bad manners to eat or drink in public. A westerner flaunting food or drink can be called down in public areas. Me? I'll probably stay close to home. There's no reason to slip inside a darkened restaurant and feel criminal for enjoying food and drink when most of the population is fasting. I go through most of my days sipping away at an icy beverage. I'll just do that in the privacy of my own home.

For the better part of the past week, there have been painters doing repair work on the outside of my villa. They've scraped and resurfaced some areas where the paint had bubbled and peeled. Then they sanded and repainted. Each morning, two of these wizened old men rang my doorbell and requested I fill their liter water bottles. I was happy to do so. Watching them out doing manual labor in the 100+ degree heat, who would mind? On the first day of Ramadan, they were out there working away and the doorbell never rang.

It's a very interesting custom. As a Catholic, I'm used to fasting before Mass, foregoing meat on Fridays, and offering up deprivation and suffering. But, I've got to give it to the Muslims who remain constant during a whole month of Ramadan. That's a great deal of sacrifice to offer up to God. It makes me thirsty just thinking about it.

--Sandee Wagner